i need ideas

[ZR2 puddle jumper]

well i got the 02 zr2. fun truck i use it for everything and i do go mudding in it. thats where i need ideas. last time i when muddin i flooded the engine with water i know i need a snorkal but i dont want the look of it i got the bakflip cover is it smart to run the snorkal back to the bed and call it a day or do you think there will be power issues. what else rink do you think of to water proof the truck?

[axcel409]

how deep of water were u in 2 flood the moter?

[ZR2 puddle jumper]

about three foot

[Rinkrat456]

Get a taller truck. Realistically there's nothing I've seen that is practical for daily use. Perhaps get an eBay tube intake and fab up a splash shield under and in front of the cone filter so that if your engine bay goes under water, the splash guard will push the water away temporarily.

There's another option, but it requires more under-the-hood space. I routed my intake tube up high near the cowl opening by utilizing the space the ABS module once took up. I removed ABS completely in my truck so I put the K&N filter up above the driver side fender well. It relation to the stock air box location, the new intake spot moved the filter up about a foot higher. Now can tackle up to 5 feet of water/mud before worrying water will get in. In relation to my truck, the intake filter sits level with the door handles so as long as I don't go into water or mud deeper than my door handles, I'm good.

[67Truckin]

While moving up the intake will keep it from drawing water in the filter, you still have a major worry about flooding out your expensive electronics such as: alternator, injectors, sensors, ignition and coils, computer, ABS system and others. If you must go that deep, silicone will become your best friend. You must seal all air and electrical connections against moisture. Think along the lines of what the swamp buggy racers do to waterproof their buggies. Don't forget to also raise the breather tubes for the differentials, transmission and transfer case.

[steve]

I do not have any experience from these but it may be worth a try. How about you cut you intake tube ad put one of the water diverters used in cold air intakes. They are meant to keep lower sport compacts form hydro locking while going through puddles. They may work for you temporarily as long as you don't plan on keeping it submerged for more then a second or two. They may be worth some research for your application.

[Rinkrat456]

While moving up the intake will keep it from drawing water in the filter, you still have a major worry about flooding out your expensive electronics such as: alternator, injectors, sensors, ignition and coils, computer, ABS system and others. If you must go that deep, silicone will become your best friend. You must seal all air and electrical connections against moisture. Think along the lines of what the swamp buggy racers do to waterproof their buggies. Don't forget to also raise the breather tubes for the differentials, transmission and transfer case.

As much as I agree with 67Truckin on keeping your electrical dry, I'm not sure the words "major" and "must" are correct, as our motors commonly get wet and are designed to operate in the outdoors. While driving down the freeway during a rainy day, there is quite a bit of water that is splashed up by the tires and the clutch fan and no motor company would have vehicles on the road if they couldn't get wet. Also, after a good day out on the trails or in the sloppy corn fields, I often times take the garden hose to my engine bay to wash all the slop off engine components. I spray the whole engine bay down first with a Win-dex/409 solution, wipe gently, and then spray the whole engine compartment down with a garden hose on low pressure. I do this after every other weekend hunting trip, or any time I've gotten really dirty. I do not soak the engine components, I just get the dirt and grime off.

One thing I do believe the words "major" and "must" apply to, is keeping the intake dry. Water in the motor can stop the motor dead in it's tracks, leaving your truck submerged under water. The idea behind deep water crossing is to keep fast momentum, allowing the tires to hydroplane and float as high as they can, along with using the front of the vehicle as a plow to keep water away from the engine and from creeping up into the cab. I agree 100% with 67Truckin on spreading silicone caulk around all that you can, including holes in the floor of the cab and firewall. Usually once water gets into the cab, the carpet will never smell the same again. Just this past September I plunged into a waist-deep duck pond covered in algae and now this spring I'm replacing the carpet and Dynamat due to the bad smell that no amount of air fresheners have overcome.

[ZR2 puddle jumper]

didnt think of the cab good thinkin i was just worried about under the hood. how about this relocating the intake to the bed. i see only two problems with this 1 the loss of sum bed space but i dont think it will hurt at all there. the lack of clean air being in a closed bed. but the pos plus side the air mite be cooler then before and hp increase. the water cant get in the motor.

[Rinkrat456]

I bet you could use some black flexible corrugated tubing at your local hardware store. Find a K&N cone filter, measure the intake tube diameter and match the flexible tubing to that. That's a long way to be pulling air in, but the idea is right about the air charge being cooler. That's another plus I figured by mounting my intake near the cowl.

Let us know what you come up with.

[ZR2 puddle jumper]

your rite well you made me think of sumthing the cowl mount way will get me the same hight clearance but the compartment will still get nail with water if you hit the puddle hard enuf. but if you get standing water in the bed it can take a while to drain and spil into the air filter. i just dont know what to do>

[Rinkrat456]

Lift the truck. With a simple body lift, free torsion bar tweak, 1.5" lift shackles and the right rims a ZR2 can tuck 33x10.50R15 tires. The body lift is $200, the torsion bar lift is free with the later cost of a needed alignment, and 1.5" lift shackles can be made for as little as scrap metal. If you can find a set of 2wd rims, run those because they have less backspacing than 4wd rims and will push your tires away from the frame - which is where they will rub if you go taller.

[ZR2 puddle jumper]

well 500 fixed my fun nite in the water. so funds are short to do that idea so far.

[bonecrushins10]

i dont see any way out of it unless you made your own system in a sealed pvc setup to the bed of the truck ,

but i like the look of a snorkel i know what your thinking maybe on a land rover but its the only way easy ,

your lucky you didnt hydro lock your motor ,