PDA

View Full Version : 2.2 performance parts


s10pete
10-27-2005, 05:50 AM
I was on STS and they have some parts I am thinking about for my 97 2.2.

a bored out TB $250
a JET Stage 2 chip, $320
a Custom Cam. $210
And the computer reprograming $350

do you guys think that the parts are worth the money? I already have an intake, e-fan, and a header-back exhaust. Are any of these parts worth it?

The other thing I was thinking about is Nitrous. I saw an article in Sport Truck magazine a while back with a 2.2 s10 that made something like 150 hp/ 165 lb ft at the wheels with a wet 50hp shot. Is that safe and reliable or is it like a - push the button and prey the motor does not blow up?

Thanks alot guys,

Pete

97 2.2 5 speed
Hurst shifter
E-fan, STS intake, Pacesetter header, Hi flow Cat, Gibson dual exhaust
3-4 Belltech kit

eriks98s10
10-27-2005, 04:41 PM
since you asked... personally, I dont think its worth it, i'd rather put in a v8, but thats just my opinion....

chuddly
10-27-2005, 05:04 PM
i have a 2.2 and i tend to agree...for that kinda money your well on your way to a v8 conversion.....i mean how much hp are you really gonna squeak outa a that engine?

SmokinChevy2000
10-27-2005, 08:16 PM
2.2's were built for mileage, NOT hp or speed, unfortunately. But like the other's said, if you want to spend the money, invest it in a V8. Oh an nitrous in a 2.2 is only effective at WOT IF it is set up properly, any other time you would risk blowing a head gasket or burning up your engine totally.

Injected
10-27-2005, 08:24 PM
Really, if you don't want the V8 guys to give you the typical "swap" suggestion, post in the 4 cylinder section. If you are considering a V8 swap, then there are MANY articles about what you need and how to do it. For the 2.2, your best bet is forced induction, but I would go the turbo or supercharger route instead of nitrous. Nitrous is safe as long as used properly (non excessive abrupt cylinder pressure increases), but you have to refill the tank.

eriks98s10
10-28-2005, 04:13 PM
read the posts that the "v8 guys" leave on this site. there is no replacement for displacement. if you want small boost in power out of your 2.2 then get a intake and exhaust and maybe a e-fan. If you want big power increase and get a turbo and nos and all that expensive stuff, then your most likely gonna fry something in your little engine. For about the same price, maybe even cheaper, you can buy a rebuilt small block and mounts and all the stuff you need for the v8 conversion. The v8, without the nos and turbo all that stuff, will probably last u longer than a 2.2 with 200 bolt-on performance parts on it... just my 2 cents....

Injected
10-29-2005, 03:25 PM
read the posts that the "v8 guys" leave on this site. there is no replacement for displacement. if you want small boost in power out of your 2.2 then get a intake and exhaust and maybe a e-fan. If you want big power increase and get a turbo and nos and all that expensive stuff, then your most likely gonna fry something in your little engine. For about the same price, maybe even cheaper, you can buy a rebuilt small block and mounts and all the stuff you need for the v8 conversion. The v8, without the nos and turbo all that stuff, will probably last u longer than a 2.2 with 200 bolt-on performance parts on it... just my 2 cents....
Erik is right about the cost efficiency of $/HP when deciding to do a V8 swap. But remember, a V8 swap, though not rocket science, is more complicated than a few bolt ons, and the fuel efficiency of the 2.2 can never be matched by a V8 without DoD, and even then.

Eric
10-29-2005, 04:24 PM
or go in the middle of the pack and put a 4.3 in

got more power than the 2.2 and better gas mileage than a V-8

i0kepa
10-29-2005, 05:07 PM
here's a reply to what you originally asked though. I wouldn't go with the Jet chip as it wouldn't work with the reprogrammed ECU. and it won't eliminate the top speed limiter as reprogramming it will. 350 is a steal for the ecu reprogramming as JET charges close to 600 for. to each his own when it comes to performance parts. Not everyone has the resources or the time to do the V8 swap. Sometimes its just easier to slap a few bolt ons onto our wimpy little 2.2

Dimemaster
10-30-2005, 07:12 AM
Lots of bad advice in this thread, so let's clear things up. First off, the 2.2 was not designed for fuel efficiency. It was designed as the cheapest way to meet emissions. There are 2 basic problems with the 2.2 when it comes to increasing output.

First, there are no practical upgrades available for the fuel injection system that will allow for more than about 175hp. Even at that level, injector life is rather short. If you want more than that you must use bigger injectors, and there are no available injectors that physically fit the 2.2 fuel system and match the impedence of the originals. Of course, you could solder and program your own ECU, but you'll play hell getting all the other electronic functions to operate, and fooling the emissions ****s will be difficult.

Second, assuming you can solve the fuel flow problems, at the 225hp level the cylinder heads develop cracking problems.

Now, let's take a look at what can be done.

First, the surest way to increase rwhp is to eliminate as much parasitic drag as possible. Think e-fan. The stock engine-driven fan really hurts the 2.2, especially when temperature conditions lock up the clutch. I think under certain conditions the stock fan can reduce rwhp by 20% or so. The second option is to install power pulleys. I'm not a big fan of power pulleys because you can gain just about as much by installing a vacuum switch that turns off the alternator's field voltage at low engine vacuum. This mod avoids the problems of underdriving the alternator at low rpm and during normal driving, and still almost eliminates drag when your foot is in the throttle. Also, your water pump maintains effectiveness in normal driving.

Basicly, engines suck and blow. A good intake reduces the effort the engine must expend sucking, and a free-flowing exhaust reduces the effort an engine must expend blowing.

Now, it simply isn't practical to do much more intake tuning than a quality aftermarket intake, such as the FIPK. You could sped thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours optimizing intake tuning, but the gain would be minimal for the investment.

On the other hand, excellent street exhaust tuning isn't so difficult to obtain. Bolt on a coated Kamikazee header and pipe, then build an exhaust with a minimum of 2.5-inch diameter tubing, mandrel bends, an aftermarket low-restriction cat, and a good turbo muffler with pass tubes the same size as your exhaust pipe. Be sure you get the right header for your cylinder head. There are two different configurations of port height in relation to the mounting studs/bolts, and either header will bolt to either head. If you have the wrong header, the ports won't line up with the primaries and you'll see no gain.

Add hotter coils, palladium plugs one heat range colder than stock, and a set of silicone insulated magnetic supression wires to insure a nice, hot spark.

Now your pathetic 120hp 2.2 is actually putting out about 20hp more than stock, and you've reduced parasitic drag by about 15hp, for a net gain at the rear wheels of 35hp. Since you only had about 90rwhp to begin with, you've made quite a gain. You've also increased your cruising efficiency by 10-12%, so in a 5-speed truck you should be seeing 30mpg or better on the highway. Also, low-speed and mid-range throttle response will be noticeably better, so city driving also sees efficiency gains.

Nitrous is a great way to get that extra little boost when you need it. A dry 50 shot may be stretching the stock injectors a bit. A wet shot with fixed jets will work, but you'll need to T into the stock fuel line and use a pressure regulator to make it work. Don't worry, the stock fuel pump has plenty of capacity. Just be sure you don't cheap out on the nitrous management system. Management should include electronic disabling of the system outside an rpm window of 3,500 to 6,000 rpm, any time fuel pressure drops, any time the throttle is not wide open, any time nitrous pressure drops, and any time the clutch or brake pedals are touched. Nitrous at a low rpm will kill your engine. Nitrous and a missed shift will kill your engine. Nice thing about nitrous is the stock timing and fuel curves in the computer are just about perfect--no chips or flashing necessary. There are less expensive alternatives to overcome speedo calibration and speed limiter problems, anyway, but that's a whole 'nother topic.

Another effective system for adding fuel with the 50-shot is a custom plate under the throttle body, with an auxiliary fuel tank of about 1 gallon in the bed, and a conventional inline electric pump and pressure regulator with return. With such a setup you can run 110-115 octane aviation gas with the nitrous, and run plain old cheap 87 octane in the truck tank. Much cheaper fuel costs overall compared to running 91 or 93 octane all the time.

Now, your little 2.2 is making in the 210-215hp range, which is about all it can stand without developing casting failure problems. Plus, you're getting better gas mileage while out hunting ricers.

Most people overlook the simplest way to increase performance. Switch to 4.11 or 4.56 gears if running the 26.1-inch diameter ZQ8 tire size. If you are running taller tires go with 4.56 or 4.88 gears. The 2.2 likes to rev. Also, I've built several 2.2s like this, and switching from 3.70 to 4.11 gears actually returned better fuel efficiency, best tank on a trip got 34.1mpg.

As listed above, with port-matched and polished intake (not ported), a 2.2 can consistently beat a stock 4.3, all else being equal, while returning nearly twice the fuel efficiency in normal driving, better handling, and quicker braking. Oh, and spring for the 20-pound nitrous bottle. Well worth the convenience of not having to fill up so often.

See, the 2.2 really isn’t that bad a little motor.

s10xtremist
10-30-2005, 11:26 AM
I'm glad you posted all that, DM. I was tossing around the idea of getting a second S10 for economy, and fun, of course. I saw a silver '02 single cab sport-side for sale last night. It's 'bagged (nicely done from what I could tell in the bed), has 18/20 Boyd's, shaved handles and steps, and looked to be a really clean interior. It's a manual and most likely (hopefully) a 2.2. God help me if it's a 4.3! It looks to be right up my alley if the price is right. Since it's already 'bagged, shaved, and otherwise modded, I can focus my efforts towards engine efficiency. I'll call about it today....

Dimemaster
10-30-2005, 09:11 PM
Well, I think enough of the 2.2 that I have one for my daily driver, as do both my sons still at home. All three are modded exactly as stated above, except without nitrous. All three return 24-26mpg around town and 30-32mpg on trips, so it's not a fluke.

s10xtremist
10-30-2005, 10:24 PM
I called about it and it is a 4.3/5 speed and he want $12k for it. That about 7 pass my limit. It will be on e-bay.

Injected
10-31-2005, 12:48 AM
Well put Dimemaster.

s10pete
10-31-2005, 02:34 AM
I figure if i am going to go slow, I might as well get good mpg. I can only get about 20/26 mpg, about 24 combined, unless i really, really keep my foot out of it? Is there a trick or somthing i dont know about?