Installing basic alarm: Possible How-to sticky?

[s10xtremist]

I've had a K-9 Mundial SS (http://www.lesscoelectronics.com/K9_Mundial_SS_Remote_Alarm_System_p/k9%20mundial%20ss%20remote%20alarm.htm), new in the box, for well over a year now. I've always been a fan of DEI products (VIPER, etc.). But from my research I've learned that problems with any brand of alarm are hardly ever because of the product, it's from faulty installation. Honestly, I chose this alarm because I liked the small, silver/black remote with bright white LED. It's the part I'll be seeing all the time and it'll be hanging from my keys. Well, it also has the features I want such as dome light control, shock sensor, starter disable, immobilizer mode, horn/light control, keyless entry control, etc...

Anyway, I'd like to install this myself as I'm sure I'm capable, I just need a few pointers to be completely comfortable. If I decide to install it, I'll take lots of pictures and write up a how-to and maybe it could be made into a sticky. If I decide that it's gonna be too complicated, then disregard this post and I'll take it to a professional.

So, on to the technical questions (these pertain to my 2002 S10):

1) Does my truck's power locks have a negative, positive, or 5-wire (rest at ground) circuit?

2) Where can I find a wire schematic that tells what wires in my harness I should tap into to control various functions (horn, parking lights, dome light, etc.), and where to get my + or - door triggers?

I'll post the alarm's wire schematic so maybe someone will be able to tell me what wire in my truck to connect to what wire to the alarm:

CONNECTOR 1
Green: - Lock
Red: + 12v
Blue: - Unlock

CONNECTOR 2
Brown/White: - Horn output
Black/White: - Dome light
Grey: - Aux output
Pink: - 3rd Channel output
Orange: - Starter kill
Blue: - Trigger input
Violet: + Door input
Green: - Door input
Yellow: + Accessory ignition

CONNECTOR 3
Brown: + Siren
Red: + 12v
White: + Flashing lights
Black: - Ground

*The few I've highlighted in red are the ones I know where they go.

[Hicks84s10]

Here you go i think this is what you need if not let me know.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/dreitageanmut/94747453.gif

[s10xtremist]

Well, I see that there is a constant hot (orange wire) going to the lock switches, and it appears to me that the outputs are white and light blue wires. That's a start, but I don't know how to decipher that diagram much more than that. Maybe I should take that as a sign to take it to a pro! :o I'm not giving up yet, though. I think I may actually be interested in this sort of thing! Thanks for the diagram, I'll continue to study it...

[Hicks84s10]

No problem, if you need anything else give me a holler.

[xtc_customs]

Constant 12 volts RED (2) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts PINK IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light WHITE (-) AT COURTESY LIGHT ABOVE THE DASH *
Parking Lamp L BLUE (+) AT LIGHT SWITCH HARNESS
Power Lock L BLUE AT MODULE ABOVE DRIVER KICK PANEL
Power Unlock WHITE AT MODULE ABOVE DRIVER KICK PANEL
* At The BCM Located Behind The Driver's Dash In Front Of The Center Console, Tan Covers Driver's Doors,Orange Covers Passenger's Door,Blue/White Covers Rear Doors, And Pink/Black Covers The Hatch.Diode Isolation Needed Cathode (Band) Side Of Diode Faces OEM Wires.
Positive Pulse Door Lock

Accessories
Window Up D\ D BLUE P\ L BLUE D\ D GREEN P\ L GREEN @ MAIN SWITCH
Window Down F/ BROWN F/ TAN R/ VIOLET R/ VIOLET
Ign Key Warn L GREEN (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
OEM Horn BLACK (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Headlights WHITE (+) AT LIGHT SWITCH HARNESS (+)
OEM Alarm Arm TAN (-) AT BODY CONTROL MODULE IN FRONT OF
OEM Alarm Disarm L GREEN (-) CENTER CONSOLE

Reversal Rest At Ground Power Window Circuit

Remote Start
Tach Signal WHITE AT IGNITION CONTROL MODULE *
Ignition #2 WHITE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #3 ORANGE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory WHITE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Neutral Safety NOT GROUNDING TYPE - OEM SWITCH OPENS STARTER CIRCUIT
Brake Light WHITE (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Light L GREEN (+) AT UNDER HOOD FUSE BOX


* Ignition Control Module Is Located On The Passenger Side Of The Engine Compartment. Wire Can Also Be Found As WHITE At Inst Cluster Or PCM On Passenger Side Of Engine Copmartment.
G.M. PASSLOCK II

[xtc_customs]

that should help you out .

[s10xtremist]

that should help you out .

Sure does! Thanks! Now that diagram is starting to make more sense. But, what exactly is the diode isolation for, and is there a certain value of diode I need?

BTW, How's the new house coming along?

[xtc_customs]

Sure does! Thanks! Now that diagram is starting to make more sense. But, what exactly is the diode isolation for, and is there a certain value of diode I need?

BTW, How's the new house coming along?


this should get you going on how a diode works ( got it from www.the12volt.com ) .
as far as why is to make sure you dont fry any part of the BCM or your alarm brain by allowing power to only flow in the direction needed .

Blocking Diodes, Isolating Door Triggers and Sensors, Diodes Across the Coil of Relays

Here's another installer friendly component you should always have handy. Blocking diodes (1N4001/L) are one way valves used in electrical circuits. These are very simple devices that are often real time savers. Other than the amperage rating of the diode, there are only three basic things to remember:

1. Cathode (side with the stripe)
2. Anode (side without the stripe)
3. Anytime the cathode is more positive than the anode, no current will flow.
http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/diodesymb.gif http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/12voltdiodes.gif

Isolating Door Triggers:
Some vehicles have two separate (-) door triggers that are isolated from each other, most commonly found on newer GM vehicles. One is for the driver's door and the second is for the rest of the doors. Below is an example of connecting them to one alarm trigger. If you were just to connect to one of these and not both, one or more doors of the vehicle would not be protected by the alarm. When installing an alarm in a vehicle with this type of door trigger (dome lamp) circuit, you must connect to both door triggers for all doors to trigger the alarm. If you were to tie each of these together without the blocking diodes, some features of the vehicle would no longer function properly. Some of the things that could happen are: the door chime / buzzer sounding when any door is opened, rather than just the driver's door, or indicators in the instrument cluster showing false information as to which door is actually opened, and so on.

This diagram would also apply to connecting the (-) outputs of two sensors, such as a glass mic and an impact sensor, to one input of an alarm.

If you have two or more positive triggers to isolate, simply connect the anode side of each diode to each trigger and the cathode sides to the positive input of the alarm.
http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/negdoortrigs.gif http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/posdoortrigs.gif


as far as the house goes its pretty good . fully moved in but still unpacking probably will be for a few months . got most of the paint done , still working on the bathroom . its cleaning up nicely though . the owners will love me when i am done . probably already added 5k to the value of the home just by removing wallpaper ( lol ) .

[s10xtremist]

Thanks for that awesome info! With yours and Hicks help, I'm becoming more understanding and less fearful of this automotive circuitry stuff.

[MacDrunk]

hmm i have a vsc3000 from jwhawkins, he sold it to me, i need how to install it i have a sonoma 98 not power doors, no power windows, any ideas were to find some pics, the other option i had is to have installed by my gmc dealer or other people