How-To: Ford 8.8"

[Rinkrat456]

It has been suggested that I create a how-to on this site for the Ford 8.8" rear end swap.


So, down to business. Before I get into real details and information you should ask yourself three questions.

1) Is my engine powerful enough where it will over power the stock 7.5" or 7.625" rear end?
The 10-bolt stock rear end that is in your truck or SUV is either a 7.5" (older 1st gens) or 7.625". If you have a ZR2 or a ZQ8 you may also have the Chevy 8.5" which is the strongest rear end found stock in an S-truck. The stock 7.5/7.625" rears are capable of handling a 305ci V8 or a mild 350ci, so it is fair to say your 2.2L or 4.3L wont break the rear end under normal power. A built 4.3L with a supercharger, turbo or nitrous may be able to get enough torque going where it will break an axle or pinion gear but how many times have you heard of that happening in an S-truck? The Chevy 8.5" is a shortened version of the full-size Chevy rear and is placed in the lifted 4x4 ZR2 applications simply because of the tall tires. Which brings me to my next point which you should ask yourself.

2) What tires am I running/will be running soon?
It has been said that the 7.625" rear end can support a 33" tall tire. The stock rear end is similar to a Dana 30/35 in that its maximum tire size should not exceed 35" otherwise failure will occur sooner. If you plan to run tall tires for lifted situations a stronger axle would be the answer since the stock 7.5/7.625" rear has only 26 or 28 spline axles.

On a different train of thought, taller tires have the same affect as sticky drag tires. Drag radials and DOT street drag radials are designed for high horsepower traction at the 1/4 mile strips and will tear through the stock rear end. I can't imagine a 2.2L breaking the rear end but a 4.3L sprayed or boosted and maybe even N/A will put incredible stress on the axles with sticky tires. A Zexel posi unit or even an Eaton will enhance traction to both tires and will accelerate the failure of the stock rear end. Tall or sticky tires require a stronger rear end. Breakage may not happen the first time, second time or for years but something will eventually break.

3) What are my future plans?
Planning on a V8 swap or boosting a 4.3L into the 13's? Lifting your truck with taller tires? Questions regarding your plans for future modifications should be addressed at this point. By reading this I'm assuming you're already wishing for a V8 or have one so it will be worth your time to really be honest with what you envision your final truck to look like. I know in the future you may come across something and then change your mind about the whole theme of your truck, believe me it's happened once or twice to me. Build your truck strong and plan for the future so you CAN do things later on if need be.





The Ford 8.8" swap came to me as an option to fix a problem. I often take an opportunity to "replace" a broken part with something custom and upgrade too. I torqued a ring bolt down too tight when changing my ring and pinion set in my stock rear end and it tore the whole carrier bearing apart. Ring gear teeth and chunks of the pinion gear fell into the drain bucket when I cracked the cover open to drain the oil.

I was stuck asking myself those three questions mentioned above. I have always run tall tires so that's already an incentive to swap in something stronger. I have been building a V8 for some time now to swap into my truck so added strength is needed for the extra power handling. Also, with added power and larger tires come poor stopping qualities so I needed something with disc brakes.

This is where I made my decision. I read that the Ford Explorer rear ends were similar in width when measuring from wheel mounting surface (WMS) to wheel mounting surface (WMS). I had also been told that Ford Explorers came with the Ford 8.8" which has 1.32" diameter axles with 31 spline shafts. The Ford Explorer is also a spring under axle (SUA) setup meaning the leaf spring perches are set underneath the axle, making it a nice swap for S-truck's since they have the same setup. I also came to find out that the leaf perches were similar distance apart as the S-truck leaf springs meaning no cutting and welding is necessary making this an easy swap. After further research and after reading helpful posts by members on this site I found that Explorers came with disc brakes and have the parking brake cable on the same side as the S10's and Sonoma's.

Wow! Jackpot for a truck that needs an answer to a future V8, tall tires and more stopping power. And better yet, some Explorers came with Traction Lok which means positraction! Due to the Ford/Firestone ordeal and the popularity of the Explorer finding an 8.8" is simple and easy on the wallet.

So I started calling around to local junkyards and found a Ford 8.8" with really low miles, disc brakes, Traction Lok and 3.73's. When measured, from WMS to WMS I got 59-5/8". You can tell what's inside the differential housing by looking at the little tag found bolted to the differential cover. All you really have to focus on is the ring and pinion ratio (most common Ford Explorer ratios were 3.08, 3.27, 3.55, 3.73 and 4.10), if it's an open differential or Traction Lok and what size the ring gear is.

If the tag says "3L73 8 8" that means it's a 3.73 gear ratio with a locking differential and an 8.8". The L stands for locking, 3 73 means 3.73's and the 8 8 means 8.8".

If the tag says "4 10 8 8" it's a Ford 8.8" with 4.10's but no locking differential. If it said 4L10 then it would be locking.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/Rinkrat456/DSC00464.jpg

[Rinkrat456]

More info on the Ford 8.8".

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/Rinkrat456/2667150570051921222wPphIZ_ph.jpg

1990-1994 Explorers have 10" drum brakes which are just as strong but don't have disc brakes. 95+ years have discs. The most common gear ratio found in the Explorer 8.8" is the 3.73. 4.10's are found in Explorers with the tow package option and 245/75R16 tires. 3.55's are commonly found in open differentials, along with the 3.08. I've never seen nor heard of a 3.27 ratio stock but they're out there I've read. If none of these are your gear of choice, Richmond makes ring and pinion sets that go all the way up to 4.88. Motive gear makes higher ratios up to 6.14. Link (http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=Ford+8%2E8&N=700+4294925134+4294839047+115+4294918962&Ntk=KeywordSearch)

The Ford 8.8" rear is 4" wider than the S10/7.625" 2WD rear, meaning a total of 2" on each side. It's a total of 59.75" wide. The S-truck 2wd rear is 54" from WMS to WMS. 4wd S-truck rears are 59" I believe, so a 4wd S-truck will have a good matching rear if the 8.8 is used. For 2wd's, this can be made up in extra backspacing found in different rims or the axle itself can be shortened by a professional machine/axle shop. Or just leave it and have your rear tires sticking out a bit compared to stock for a mean look. It's basically a must for lifted trucks to clear taller tires and have more room for articulation. These measurements are taken from WMS to WMS. The leaf spring perches are only half an inch wider than the S-truck leaf springs meaning they'll sit perfectly with a little tugging on one leaf spring. Mine pretty much popped into place with a light pull on the leaf spring pack.

The Ford Explorer bolt pattern (bp) is 5x4.5". The S-truck bp is 5x4.75" meaning you'll need to have the axles redrilled to the S-truck bolt pattern or just pick up cheap Exploder rims while you're at the junkyard picking up the rear end. My cheapo rims were $20 bucks for two, so it's not a big deal for temporary rims. Take your axles to an axle shop near you and have the S10 bolt pattern drilled into the axles and rotors.

If you're using rims that have a thicker mounting pad or redrill your axles for the S10 bp, go to NAPA and pick up longer extended metric studs. NAPA Auto parts, part number BK 6411581. These allow me to get full thread contact vs just 4-5 turns with wheel spacers.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/Rinkrat456/c569d6e5.jpg
Thanks to Red Barron, a member on S10 forum, for the bolt pattern pic.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/Rinkrat456/untitled.jpg
That's not my rear end nor my picture, but I thought a full view of the differences would help.

[Rinkrat456]

Since by this page you have all the information on what to look for, let me remind you that if/when you go pick up your rear end you need the end piece on the Explorer driveshaft. YOU DO NOT NEED THE WHOLE DRIVESHAFT. Just the end piece that bolts up to the pinion flange on the Ford 8.8. That flange needs to go onto your driveshaft by means of the common 1030 U-joint. You will need to take your driveshaft off your truck and bring it to a shop to have your shaft mated with the right 1030 yoke if your S-truck doesn't match up. The Double-Cardan joint was removed on mine and the driveshaft was lengthened to keep the shaft the same length. Some S-trucks have the 1030 U-joint already, so a replacement joint is all that's needed. But make sure you get the 8.8 driveshaft flange from the Exploder while you're at the junkyard.

Basically you can go into a driveshaft shop with your S-truck driveshaft in one hand and the Ford end piece in the other hand and say “I need this piece (point to the end piece) put on this driveshaft (point to your S-truck driveshaft) and I need the length to remain the same.” That’s what I said and everyone went to work. I had my driveshaft the next day for $120 bucks.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/Rinkrat456/100_5165.jpg

The next thing you need to pick up is at a Ford dealership. At the dealership you’ll need to pick up 4 bolts that go in each hole of that flange and bolts the driveshaft to the rear end. There are 4, and come in a bag of 4. Part number N800594-S100. Print off that picture and take it to the dealership if need be.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/Rinkrat456/FordBolt.jpg

Other than wider U-bolts and two lengths of 3/16th’s domestic brake lines you’re good to go. The S10 rear has a T-connector that splits one brake line into two and the Ford 8.8” uses the same system making the swap really straight forward. The shocks and shock mounts are all the same and have enough clearance to function properly.

If you retain the Explorer bolt pattern you’ll need new lug nuts. Either grab the ones from the donor Explorer or stop into an Autozone and pick up 10. Part number 611-163.1

The only snag that I ran into was getting the U-bolts to fit. Grab a C-clamp and bend the U-bolts around the axle and into their holes. If you can find 3-1/4” round U-bolts you’re in good shape but every local store near me only had 3-1/8”.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/Rinkrat456/100_5147.jpg

Unfortunately I was so busy getting the swap completed that I didn’t take many pictures while actually swapping the rear ends.

It’s pretty straight forward. If you have any questions just post them here.

[Rinkrat456]

I also want to add that having all the parts first before you start unbolting things from your truck will help quite a bit. Parts chasing took up 90% of my time. This could have been completed in a single night, but waiting on parts and having things shipped from here and there made it a 2 week ordeal. I took a weekend off to go fishing and that was it.





Hope this helps anyone.

[Injected]

Good job.

These write ups are time consuming aren't they?

[aggressive350]

damn, sounds pretty strait forward. i didnt think that all the mounts would be the same.. pretty cool. :D

[97v8s10]

Woot! woot! Great job on the how to! I'm proud of you! :p

[Rinkrat456]

Good job.

These write ups are time consuming aren't they?

I've been piecing this together on Word for months, last night it just took about 2 hours to fully lay it out and verify what I had with other sites so my info is correct.

[97v8s10]

If I ever upgrade my drivetrain for more power I will use your how to !!!!!!

[Rinkrat456]

If I ever upgrade my drivetrain for more power I will use your how to !!!!!!

Not with a 305ci you wont need to... :cool:


But it's nice to know the How-To will be used. Like I said, if anyone's got any questions just ask away.

[97v8s10]

Not with a 305ci you wont need to... :cool:


But it's nice to know the How-To will be used. Like I said, if anyone's got any questions just ask away.
LOL! Hence the word "upgrade"!!!!!
A larger motor will always be in the back of my mind since I got shafted on this one.

[Rinkrat456]

I want to see someone stroke the 305ci to 340ci. I don't care if you can make the same power with a 5.7L V8 stock, that's not the point. It's just to say you did it. Not to mention all YOU would need is a 3.75" crank, same rods different pistons and a new camshaft.

And a Ford 8.8" of course. :rolleyes:

[97v8s10]

I want to see someone stroke the 305ci to 340ci. I don't care if you can make the same power with a 5.7L V8 stock, that's not the point. It's just to say you did it. Not to mention all YOU would need is a 3.75" crank, same rods different pistons and a new camshaft.

And a Ford 8.8" of course. :rolleyes:

I tell you what. I be a good friend and let you buy all the stuff I would need to do it. Send it to me and I'll have it build. Oh yeah I'll buy my own 8.8"!!!!!!!!!!

[aggressive350]

I want to see someone stroke the 305ci to 340ci. I don't care if you can make the same power with a 5.7L V8 stock, that's not the point. It's just to say you did it. Not to mention all YOU would need is a 3.75" crank, same rods different pistons and a new camshaft.

And a Ford 8.8" of course. :rolleyes:

is that a hint rink... lol :D

[Rinkrat456]

is that a hint rink... lol :D

Well yes it is! Lol. You and Beckner both have 305's I believe so either one of you could do it.

[ASEPKIDS10]

im on ebay looking for parts as i type!

thanks for the advice and directions :D

[chevysqk1]

I also want to add that having all the parts first before you start unbolting things from your truck will help quite a bit. Parts chasing took up 90% of my time. This could have been completed in a single night, but waiting on parts and having things shipped from here and there made it a 2 week ordeal. I took a weekend off to go fishing and that was it.





Hope this helps anyone.
HEY MAN THAT WAS GREAT INFO,, I HAVE BEEN DECIDING ON WHAT TO DO FOR FOR 2 WEEKS,, WELL KNOW I HAVE MY MIND SET ON WHAT IAM GOING TO DO,, THANX ALOT ... ALSO,, KEEP UP ON THE HOW TOS.



IF ITS NOT A V8 ITS NOT WORTH HAVING !

[Draggin83]

I want to see someone stroke the 305ci to 340ci. I don't care if you can make the same power with a 5.7L V8 stock, that's not the point. It's just to say you did it. Not to mention all YOU would need is a 3.75" crank, same rods different pistons and a new camshaft.

Thats what i need to do to my fullsize. For the S10 do you use a cherokee front rear? Man i hate saying front rear, ding fries are done. :devil:

Building a 89 Blazer for a friend, 4 links front and back, was wondering what to use in the front for the solid axle?

[Rinkrat456]

Ya it'd be cool to have a 340ci, but now I'm so into LSx motors I wont dare touch another Gen II block since there's no point. Stock 350 Gen II compared to stock Gen III 350, the LSx motor will blow it out of the water just because of all the new technology put into the block. So now, I'd rather go with the 4.8L Vortec 4800 instead of old school 5.0L.

But, if you have a 305ci already in your S-truck (hint hint Beckner) you should stroke it just for the hell of it. I mean, 340hp and 370-380lb-ft of torque is plenty for any lowered S-truck.

[97v8s10]

if you have a 305ci already in your S-truck (hint hint Beckner)

Yeah! Beckner needs to get off his lazy arse! LOL! :D

[BIG-10]

Thanks for the info busted my rear a month ago :D . Heard the 8.8 swap was easy, now i know. Picking up rear today.

[Johnnyby_68]

thank ya much rink rat. very helpful write up. now i know what to look for this spring or maybe even this winter to upgrade the rear in my truck. if youd like i can take more pics of the rear end swap for ya. just lemme know what ya want. once again thank ya much

[Rinkrat456]

Whatever you have I'll take a look at. Any pics you can send to me via email. When the time comes, PM me and I'll give you my email.

[Johnnyby_68]

just curious, whats the fastest or most hp these rears have taken with the factory gears and posi? a dumb question i know, but it doesn't hurt to know.

[Rinkrat456]

just curious, whats the fastest or most hp these rears have taken with the factory gears and posi? a dumb question i know, but it doesn't hurt to know.
You could check on some Mustang forums for that answer, because I don't know. I have heard of a 700hp supercharged 5.0L mustang and all that was replaced was the differential cover.

[KeownBoyzRacing]

I finally finished the 8.8 swap yesterday. I love my new truck. I cant believe the difference the swap made. I had to go back to factory studs on my axles. I used the factory brake lines. I went to a local parts house and picked up a nipple to reduce the line to where all I had to do is mount the line at the frame. I got my 3-1/4"u-bolts for the axles from Jegs. Other than parts chasing the swap was to easy. Rinkrat I want to thank you for all the information that you posted. I sent a pic of the drive shaft bolts with my wife to Ford garage and it was so simple for the both of them. They laughed when she handed them the pic.
I done alot of searching before I started the swap. This post was the most useful and simply that I found. I just wished I paid more attention on the 6" wider axle on the 4x4. I got mine out of a 95 4x4 with the 3 L 73 8 8 tag. They took it out for $250. Most sites that I read say the 8.8 axle is 3" wider. Then when I got it home and measured I found out it was 6" wider. Then I came back and read this post again to find out the 4x4 is 6" wider. Alot of back spacing on my wheels. If anyone is going to do this swap just follow this post to the T and it will be so simply that anyone can do it. Almost forgot, I pick up an aluminium drive shaft for $35 and had it cut down for $30.

[Rinkrat456]

Glad I could help. I said to print that pic off so Ford parts guys don't get confuse. We all know how they're not the brightest bunch of fellas over at the Ford part's counter. :cool:

Did you go with drums or discs? If you have drums, I was thinking of adding another section to this to cover both drums and discs and need pics of drums...since I have discs.

[KeownBoyzRacing]

I went with disc. I let my brother drive my truck the day I finished it and now he wants to do his truck. Maybe I can talk him into doing drums and Ill take pics if he does. First we got to get rid of the 4 banger. He talks like we're going to put a 406 in it.

[97v8s10]

I went with disc. I let my brother drive my truck the day I finished it and now he wants to do his truck. Maybe I can talk him into doing drums and Ill take pics if he does. First we got to get rid of the 4 banger. He talks like we're going to put a 406 in it.
V8 s10s are contagious!

[projectdyme]

Hello fellas, I am new to the forum and to my 86 reg cab/s.bed 2wd. When I bought it the guy said it was a one legger with 342s, the "stock" drive shaft is in the bed. I plan on installing a 350ci and a th350 and I am definitely sold on the 8.8 swap great job on the write up! Do I need to alter the drive shaft? That is the question. I know this is not the thread but do I have to keep the A/C box or whatever it's called under the hood? not worried about A/C it's going to be a track toy and first project BTW. Thanks for your help.

[fossunit43]

Welcome dyme, sounds like a sweet project to start out on. Good luck. I don't know if Rinkrat has been on this site for a week or two.

[Bahrstool]

Keeping the blower box is purely up to you. I stripped my 94 s10 down for the track and only left the dash board. the only reason i can see keeping it is if you want your blower to work.

[Rinkrat456]

Didn't want to let this write up get buried over time, just refreshing it, especially since many folks have been asking about the 8.8" lately.

[s10xtremist]

Is $300 a fair price for a ~75K-mile 3.73 8.8 w/posi from a '97?

This is what I found on craigslist, but I really need a 4.10. A new 4.10 gearset is $150...

[Rinkrat456]

I've been told time and time again that MN is a unique state, because I find drivetrain parts super cheap. Every axle I've purchased, including high pinion Dana 60's from the junkyard, have all been under $200. Granted, I buy with super high miles and then rebuild so the end result is more expensive but more or less brand new or better than stock after I'm done with it.

If you still have trouble finding an axle after your search, I can hook you up. I have over 8 pages of car-part listings all with 4.10's under 200 bucks, cheapest axles are for around 80 bucks.

[s10xtremist]

I've been told time and time again that MN is a unique state, because I find drivetrain parts super cheap. Every axle I've purchased, including high pinion Dana 60's from the junkyard, have all been under $200. Granted, I buy with super high miles and then rebuild so the end result is more expensive but more or less brand new or better than stock after I'm done with it.

If you still have trouble finding an axle after your search, I can hook you up. I have over 8 pages of car-part listings all with 4.10's under 200 bucks, cheapest axles are for around 80 bucks.

There again, I forgot about car-part. Is that 8 pages of just stuff that's close to you?! I'll go check it out. I'll be heading to Pasadena for Thanksgiving, maybe I'll luck up and find an axle somewhere between here and there. If I find one cheap enough, I'll get two. Abby's gonna need one for that V8. I need to find a Toyota 22RE also. May as well make a car-part shopping list.

[Rinkrat456]

All 8 pages were within 120 miles of my current location, which is no different than driving home. My search was listing the zipcode close to my school's location but my home is 2 hours away so all those 8 pages were located somewhere along the the drive home or very close to home. We have a ton of Exploders around here in MN. Something about mini-SUV, 4wd and domestic made appeals to Minnesotans. Probably because we have/had a Ford plant near by, most families don't need a large SUV like my dad's, and 4wd is a "must" for most yuppie drivers.

[s10xtremist]

Well, I found a few rear ends on car-part that are along my route to Houston and in the Houston area. I also went back to my "honey hole" 'yard and they still have that '03 Explorer Sport. I took a picture of the tag and it reads, from top left to top right "V614D [space] (something jumbled- looks like "|1|"). Then under that from left to right is "73 88 2M16". I assume this is a 3.73 rear, but my concern is if it's a posi. It has 63,xxx miles on it and they'll let me pull it for $250. Without pulling off the cover, is there another way to tell if it's an LSD? Also, does it matter what year range I should stick to when searching for an axle, other than for discs? I'd prefer as late of a model as possible.

[Rinkrat456]

Above look for my tag picture to tell how to read if it has the Ford Traction Lok limited slip or not. I wonder if that "1" you see is an L and the other 3 has just been worn off. Clean it with some soap and water if it's dirty and then look at it very carefully.

[s10xtremist]

I compared my tag to your tag but that didn't help much. It's like mine is missing the 2 most important characters. Here's a pic of it:

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg63/s10xtremist/th_88IDTAG.jpg (http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg63/s10xtremist/?action=view&current=88IDTAG.jpg)

[Rinkrat456]

Interesting. I guess the only way to know is to pop the cover and look. Definitely 3.73's though. Weren't you hunting around for a 4.10 rear?

[Rinkrat456]

Does this help at all?

Door tag codes for Explorer axles, all years:

Code
Description
Capacity
Ratio

41
Open 8.8"
3200
3.27

43
Open 8.8"
3200
3.08

44
Open 8.8"
3200
3.73

45
Open 8.8"
3200
3.55

D1
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.27

D2
L/S 8.8"
3200
4.10

D4
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.73

D5
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.73

[s10xtremist]

Interesting. I guess the only way to know is to pop the cover and look. Definitely 3.73's though. Weren't you hunting around for a 4.10 rear?

I was/am, but all the 4.10s I've found locally are OC, and most with really high mileage and/or drum brakes. This is a really clean and decent-mileage axle for $250. I figured I could always just swap the ring and pinion when I opened it up to replace the clutches. I read they're only good for 20k miles or so. I found a ~32k mile 4L10 15 miles from me, but they want $400. The local LKQ is having a 50% off sale next weekend, and their axles are around $175 at normal price. They have one 4L10 with discs, but it has high mileage (~199K). What all is involved in freshening up an 8.8, such as replacing the clutches, bearings, etc.? If I can refresh an old 4L10 for $150 +/-, I'll get one of the 50%-off axles and rebuild it.


Does this help at all?

Door tag codes for Explorer axles, all years:

Code
Description
Capacity
Ratio

41
Open 8.8"
3200
3.27

43
Open 8.8"
3200
3.08

44
Open 8.8"
3200
3.73

45
Open 8.8"
3200
3.55

D1
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.27

D2
L/S 8.8"
3200
4.10

D4
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.73

D5
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.73

Excellent info! That'll save me some of the crawling in the dirt and weeds. Thanks! I'll go back and look at the door of that '03. If it's a LS, I'll keep it on my list of possibilities.

[Rinkrat456]

You'll spend $300 on a ring and pinion set, install kit and labor to press bearings. Take that into account for original purchasing price if you don't want to rebuild right away.

Check this out.
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/5-0-mustangs/58740-trac-lok-rebuild-how.html

[s10xtremist]

Lots of good info to chew on. I guess it's finally time I take the plunge and invest in a dial indicator and micrometer set. I've needed these tools on a few occasions, but always worked my way around it, which seemed to just make things more difficult and/or expensive.

[ss383man]

I am putting a 8.8 in my s10 and i was wondering wat kind of rim and tire combo i need to run. I have a 383 stroker that has 500 horse with a six speed stick and it is going to be a street strip truck. Since the 8.8 is wider 2" on each side than my stock rear axle. Just wondering wat i need to run. Any ideas?

[Rinkrat456]

Add 2" of backspacing to your current rims. Stock 2wd rims have between 3.75-4.33" of backspacing depending on model and year, so wherever rims you have now just increase the amount of backspacing.

If this is going to be a street, strip truck, look into these.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Strange%20Engineering/873/A1090/10002/-1?CT=999

And for housing strength and increased ring and pinion stability, these.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-8510500/

[ss383man]

i have a 1996 chevy s10 extended cab. i was wondering since the rear diff is offset to one side will this Ford 8.8 swap even work. The extended cabs have a carrier bearing in the driveshaft. Thanks

[67Truckin]

I have heard of using two short side tubes and axle shafts to narrow the axle and center the differential housing. Might want to check into that.

[Rinkrat456]

Many factory axles are offset slightly to one side. The U-joints take care of the offset. Some folks go to the extreme and use the short side axle tube and shaft from a spare 8.8 and replace the long side on their 8.8.