How To: Install a wishbone 3-link & step notch

[mreed]

I was cleaning up my random pics file & found enough pics to put together a little how to. I've had a few PM's about this. I figured it would be easier to post it up here so everyone could see.
First:...pull the bed off & pressure wash what you are about to work with.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00033-1.jpg
Support the truck securely on jackstands. Use shims to get the flat part of the frame just above the axle level then strip everything from the cab back.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00055-1.jpg

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00062-1.jpg

[mreed]

The top part of the frame (above the bumpstop bracket) is curved & needs to be cut so the notch will slide over it evenly.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00070.jpg
Tack the 2 outer pieces & the top piece together, slide it over the frame and center it for proper axle travel. Centering a notch on an S10 frame is easy because there is a large hole on both sides that can be used as a center-point reference.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00067.jpg
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00068.jpg
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00064.jpg

[mreed]

Slide the notches over the frame. Measure, measure, measure...make sure that the top of the notch is level with the frame & that both notches are in the same place on each rail. When you're comfortable with the location weld it up.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00072.jpg
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00073.jpg

[mreed]

Wait until the welds are cool to the touch then cut out the part of the frame you no longer need.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00076.jpg
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00075.jpg

[mreed]

Weld in the last pieces of the notch to gusset your new (section) and paint everything that is bare to avoid flash rust.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00077.jpg
Remove the rivets that secure the stock gas tank crossmember to the frame, enlarge the rivet holes and bolt in the new raised tank crossmember/ forward wishbone mount.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00078.jpg

[mreed]

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00079.jpg

[mreed]

You'll need to move the front leafspring mounts back so that they don't drag the ground. You can either buy some or make some but it's much easier to reuse the ones you have. They'll look like crap but with a little sandblasting & paint they'll look like new.

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00039.jpg
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00080.jpg
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00082.jpg
It's best to use a template to mark the new mount holes to ensure that both sides will match exactly.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00081.jpg

[mreed]

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00084.jpg
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00085.jpg

[mreed]

Now strip the rear end & remove the axle pads. It's a breeze with a plasma cutter but I do it with a cut off wheel because it's too easy to gouge the axle tube.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00087.jpg
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00088.jpg

[mreed]

Install the diff. bracket & wishbone link on to the rearend. Position the rearend under the truck to locate the lower bar axle tabs.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00091.jpg
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00092.jpg

[mreed]

Find the pinion angle with a gauge, mount the bars to the tabs, center the rear end laterally, tack on the tabs and pull it back out to clean the metal, finish weld the tabs & paint the assembly.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00135.jpg
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00136.jpg

[mreed]

There are a couple of extra bushings in the last 2 pics. You won't need these unless you decide on cantilever bag bars.

Reassemble everything.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00103.jpg

[mreed]

There you go...linked in a weekend. Now you'll have to decide on your means of levitation. This 3 link works great with bags, hydraulics or coil overs. Hope it answers some questions.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00100.jpg
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l194/reactivecustoms/DSC00096.jpg

[Rinkrat456]

And use nothing but grade 8 bolts and hardware everywhere in a linked suspension!

Sweet and easy build, almost makes me wish I had the resources to such a thing on a daily driver. Turn my daily into a bagged Cadillac S10, riding on air.

Has been renamed and sticky'd. Thanks for the How-to.

[mreed]

And use nothing but grade 8 bolts and hardware everywhere in a linked suspension!

Sweet and easy build, almost makes me wish I had the resources to such a thing on a daily driver. Turn my daily into a bagged Cadillac S10, riding on air.

Has been renamed and sticky'd. Thanks for the How-to.
YES>>>GRADE 8. I can't believe I forgot to mention that. The "good looking" stainless bolts you can buy at the local hardware will actually be a lesser grade than 2.